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Just ordered the Porter Cable 7424xp
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Es Ar Tee PT
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Posts: 826
Location: Hell Paso, Texas

PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 7:09 pm    Post subject: Just ordered the Porter Cable 7424xp Reply with quote

Any tips for a first time machine user?
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Gone: 2004 PT Turbo Lite Touring Edition. CHQ 3" catless DP, Prothane race MM inserts, Heartthrob 2.5"catback, Mopar BOV, full Granatelli ignition, K&N drop in. Everything else is OEM Mopar! Sad

New: 2012 Hyundai Accent SE 5 door. Marathon Blue with black interior. Bought it new on July 2nd 2011 with 7 miles Smile
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rcktpwrd
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Joined: 28 Jul 2008
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Location: Raleigh, NC

PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not terribly difficult to use... Head over to the Meguiars forum and read up on using a DA, that's how I got started.
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Joel
2001 PT Cruiser Touring 5 speed
1976 Cutlass S
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Mike-in-Orange
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Joined: 08 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wrote this article on our forum at work last year (my PT features prominently in it!) and it's become a very popular primer for using the DA buffer. This is all the same info I cover when doing seminars at Barrett-Jackson auctions around the country, at our Detailing 101 Classes, or when doing demos and seminars for various magazines, car clubs, etc. With over 23,000 views in barely a year, it's been a pretty popular topic!
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Turbo Lite + Stage 1 + VAK + Magnecor = 14.48 @ 94.25mph
http://www.formulagrafix.com/cars
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Es Ar Tee PT
PTcrewner


Joined: 19 Jan 2010
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Location: Hell Paso, Texas

PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

THats a great read. Thanks for the info once again Smile
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Gone: 2004 PT Turbo Lite Touring Edition. CHQ 3" catless DP, Prothane race MM inserts, Heartthrob 2.5"catback, Mopar BOV, full Granatelli ignition, K&N drop in. Everything else is OEM Mopar! Sad

New: 2012 Hyundai Accent SE 5 door. Marathon Blue with black interior. Bought it new on July 2nd 2011 with 7 miles Smile
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sakigt
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After reading that article Ive been doing it way wrong for so long!

I need a free weekend to try it out!
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Mike-in-Orange
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doing it wrong is pretty common - most people do one or more of the following and it compromises the results:

    - Not enough pressure down onto the pad
    - Not keeping the pad flat against the paint
    - Running the buffer at too slow a speed
    - Arm movements over the paint are too fast
    - Too large a work area covered at once
    - Too much product overall
    - Not working the product long enough, or working it too long
    - Not cleaning the pad often enough, or not swapping to a fresh pad once or twice at least during a full correction

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Turbo Lite + Stage 1 + VAK + Magnecor = 14.48 @ 94.25mph
http://www.formulagrafix.com/cars
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Es Ar Tee PT
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
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Location: Hell Paso, Texas

PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick question. A big complaint of the new 2012 accent is thin/delicate paint. Will the porter cable damage this? It rated as safe I just wanna make double sure.
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Gone: 2004 PT Turbo Lite Touring Edition. CHQ 3" catless DP, Prothane race MM inserts, Heartthrob 2.5"catback, Mopar BOV, full Granatelli ignition, K&N drop in. Everything else is OEM Mopar! Sad

New: 2012 Hyundai Accent SE 5 door. Marathon Blue with black interior. Bought it new on July 2nd 2011 with 7 miles Smile
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Mike-in-Orange
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do these complaints center around - rock chips? Guys complain about that on the Crossfire forum and they think the paint is therefore somehow delicate, thin, cheap, etc. But buffing those cars can be a pain because the paint is actually very hard, as in "resistant to buffing". That's a totally different dynamic that whether or not a paint is resistant to chipping.

Delicate paint is stuff that hazes easily when using overly aggressive liquids, whether you're working by hand or with a buffer of some sort. I've worked on some late model Honda Civic sedans with very delicate paint, and a 2011 Prius in non metallic black with crazy delicate paint. For those cars all you really need is a decent cleaner wax, like Meguiar's ColorX or M66.

This is why you always want to do a test spot the first time you work on a given car - you have no clue how that paint is going to respond to input until you try something on it. You're looking for an improvement in the appearance of the paint compared to an area you haven't yet touched. It doesn't have to be perfect after a single pass, but it should look better - glossier and with fewer swirls. If the swirls are gone but the paint looks sort of dull and flat, you do NOT need a more aggressive product, you need a less aggressive product. In fact, you might the more aggressive product at first to remove all the swirls, and then a second, less aggressive product to clean up the haze from the first product. Sometimes we see this with Ultimate Compound, but most times you can go from UC straight to wax without seeing any haze at all. But do that test spot and re-evaluate the paint very critically in bright, direct light.

If it turns out that you are fighting very delicate paint (paint that hazes easily) then read through this article I wrote on that topic.

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Turbo Lite + Stage 1 + VAK + Magnecor = 14.48 @ 94.25mph
http://www.formulagrafix.com/cars
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Es Ar Tee PT
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
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Location: Hell Paso, Texas

PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok mike! I just received it today and I'm doing my dads Jeep tomorrow to practice. He's a good guy for letting my expand my skills lol. I'm planning on using gold class shampoo, mothers clay system, ultimate compound, color x, and m#26 in that order. Wish me luck!!
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Gone: 2004 PT Turbo Lite Touring Edition. CHQ 3" catless DP, Prothane race MM inserts, Heartthrob 2.5"catback, Mopar BOV, full Granatelli ignition, K&N drop in. Everything else is OEM Mopar! Sad

New: 2012 Hyundai Accent SE 5 door. Marathon Blue with black interior. Bought it new on July 2nd 2011 with 7 miles Smile
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Mike-in-Orange
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So....... how did it come out????
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Turbo Lite + Stage 1 + VAK + Magnecor = 14.48 @ 94.25mph
http://www.formulagrafix.com/cars
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Es Ar Tee PT
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Came out great! I didn't get any pictures! Doh!!! I ended up watching several videos and reading your post and that got me through it just fine. You should've seen the clay after I was done. Shocked The ultimate compound got the majority of swirls/scratches out and color x took care of the rest. Finished it up with a hand application of m26 to make it smell like bananas. Too bad he works on a missile range, the desert didn't let it stay shiny for long Sad none the less, I got what I wanted out of it and that was confidence to continue using the pc.

Just one quick q guys and gals.
Any particular backing plate adapter that you recommend?

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Gone: 2004 PT Turbo Lite Touring Edition. CHQ 3" catless DP, Prothane race MM inserts, Heartthrob 2.5"catback, Mopar BOV, full Granatelli ignition, K&N drop in. Everything else is OEM Mopar! Sad

New: 2012 Hyundai Accent SE 5 door. Marathon Blue with black interior. Bought it new on July 2nd 2011 with 7 miles Smile
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RaiDeR_GT
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Joined: 30 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can swirl marks be taken out by hand? With the right product?
Why I ask Is the wife got a new black car and it has swirl marks in it.I told the salesman to fire there detailer because his work was not good.!
thx

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LiquidPT
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RaiDeR_GT wrote:
Can swirl marks be taken out by hand? With the right product?
Why I ask Is the wife got a new black car and it has swirl marks in it.I told the salesman to fire there detailer because his work was not good.!
thx


Yes, but it requires quite a lot of elbow grease. Hell, I have a black car and a machine and I have troubles getting all the swirls out.

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My PT Cruiser is gone, but we've still got 1 out of 4 left!
Now driving a Mysterious (black) 2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe (#100/1152) and a 1991 Jeep Cherokee

snittykitty: If you can't handle being corrected, don't be wrong.
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Mike-in-Orange
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Es Ar Tee PT wrote:


Just one quick q guys and gals.
Any particular backing plate adapter that you recommend?
The backing plate you use is going to depend on what pads you're using. If you're using Meguiar's Soft Buff 2.0 pads - the 7" pads with the recessed back to them - the you want Meguiar's W68DA backing plate. If you're using Lake Country pads then use either the Meguiar's W67DA or Lake Country's own backing plate.

What are you using now for pads and plate?

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Turbo Lite + Stage 1 + VAK + Magnecor = 14.48 @ 94.25mph
http://www.formulagrafix.com/cars
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Mike-in-Orange
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RaiDeR_GT wrote:
Can swirl marks be taken out by hand? With the right product?
Why I ask Is the wife got a new black car and it has swirl marks in it.I told the salesman to fire there detailer because his work was not good.!
thx
As Matt points out, it's going to take some serious elbow grease even if the paint is very receptive to the process. When I teach our detailing classes here at work, and when I do demos at Barrett-Jackson, I do a side by side comparison of hand application and DA application. Results very depending on the hardness or softness of the particular paint I'm working on, but I always expend a lot more effort and energy doing a 1' x 1' area by hand than when doing half a hood with the DA.

Speaking of which, when doing this by hand, you really need to work in that small of an area to get the job done.

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Turbo Lite + Stage 1 + VAK + Magnecor = 14.48 @ 94.25mph
http://www.formulagrafix.com/cars
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