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Booger Bushing installation

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Joined: 05 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: SK, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 3:56 pm    Post subject: Booger Bushing installation Reply with quote

If these images are still too large, PM me and I can scale them down a little more.

This is my how-to on installing Booger Bushings (link) in my 2002 non-turbo PT Cruiser. I assume Neons and other FWD Chrysler products are similar. They're a cheap investment for the reward you get from them. When I got my car, it was like shifting with a wet noodle. Even when in gear, the shifter moved forward and back 1".

The first step is to remove the console. There are 4 screws holding it down; 2 in the front and 2 in the rear.

While you're removing the rear screws, remove the power window switches while you're back there. They just pop and slide out. Squeeze the lock tabs on the sides of the connections and pull them out.

Remove the shift knob. If you have the factory shifter, the knob just pops off (aftermarket ones may pop or thread off). There's several different techniques to removing it (gently tapping up from the bottom with a block of wood, putting a cloth/towel around shifter handle, putting pliers at the bottom of the knob and hitting the pliers with a hammer, etc.), but for me, I just grabbed on and pulled up on it. Careful with whatever method you use though. The knob can go flying and break something or you. Or if you pull it off by hand, try not to hit yourself in the face (don't laugh, I've heard of people doing it).

After the console is free, slide and recline both seats back as far as they can go. Pull the park brake up as far as you can. Lift the rear of the console up and slide it back so the front clears the dash. I didn't disconnect the cigarette lighter but you can if you want. I just laid the console off to the passenger side.

Now the fun begins. The bushings need to come out of the shifter. For the driver side, I slid a screwdriver in from
the top (where the slot is) and pried the cable end off of the shifter. Don't be too rough though. The cables are supposedly $100 apiece from the dealer (which is what Chrysler tells you to buy if your bushings are shot) or you'll have to fabricate a new end for the cable.

For the passenger side, I put the shifter in the neutral position and pushed it to the driver side to make it more accessible. Again pry the cable end off the shifter.

You'll need to work the bushings out of the cable ends from the backside with a screwdriver. Don't worry about mangling them. You won't need them again.

Here is a comparison of the old bushings (top) with the new bushings (bottom). My shifter bushings weren't too bad but the transmission ones were bad, as you'll see later on.

Make sure to put a small dab of grease inside the bushings or you'll never get them on (well, you might but I like to do things the easy way). Make sure the wide end of the bushing is facing outwards and slide it onto the cable end. Push it onto the shifter and reinstall the console, reversing the steps above.

Next up are the transmission bushings. First step is removing the air box. Undo the 2 clips (circled in red) and loosen the hose clamp (also circled in red). Remove the hose from airbox lid and set the lid aside.

The bottom of the airbox just pulls out. Remove the tube from the side of the box and set it aside. Some people remove the battery and battery box but I just unbolted the fuse box bracket. The two bolts in the bottom are all that hold it in place. It doesn't move a whole lot but it's enough to get the bushing installed.

Underneath, you'll find one big end and one small end. Yours may look similar to mine or they might have rubber left in them.

Like the shifter bushings, put a dab of grease in the bushing, slide it into the cable end (wide end up) and push it onto the transmission. End result should look like this:

Reverse the airbox removal procedure and you're done.

1973 Barracuda
Modifications: Too many.
2002 PT Cruiser
N/A 2.4L/5-speed
Modifications: Boogers, Maddog 80% STS, Auto throttle body, Airbox modifications, Eibach Pro springs, Energy Suspension control arm bushings & motor mount inserts, disabled balance shafts.

Last edited by mopar_man on Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Joined: 05 Oct 2007
Posts: 2362
Location: Lake Norman, NC

PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 8:47 pm    Post subject: 2006 and up Booger Bushing installs Reply with quote

Well I completed the bushing install in my engine compartment today as I'm leaving tomorrow for Indiana, so wanted to see how they felt. Damn site tighter! Anyway, found that MoparMan's post was a brilliant guide, but that the '06 and up vehicles have the bushings in a slightly different location and getting to them isn't as easy as on the earlier model PT's.

So I've taken some photos to add to MoparMan's already brilliant work to help out anyone who has an '06 and up PT. Mind you this is on the G288 Getrag tranny, but the manual shows the 350 tranny has them in similar locations and access looks to have the same issues as what I encountered today.

First, as MoparMan states, remove the air cleaner completely, you can't get to these if it's there. Then accessing the bolts for the mounting plate sucked, they were torqued beyond imagination and getting to the front one sucks as it's just a few millimeters from the battery. Had to use a 15mm box wrench and cheater bar to get it loose. Both bolts are 15mm.

Once you have the tray loose, you'll notice that the power pack is connected to it, so try to pull it forward and like I did, tie it off out of your way. Once you've done that you have clear access to the connections.

I read through MoparMan's instructions twice trying to determine how the heck to pull these, then remembered I had a door panel tool that worked perfectly for this job, it pops the cable ends off the posts, then popped the bushings out of the cable ends with zero damage. The $12 I spent on this tool at Advance Auto Parts was well worth the money and it's quickly becoming one of my most used automotive tools.

Some comparisons after I pulled the factory bushings...

I tried my shifter in several positions and 3rd gear seemed to give me the most play in the cable while giving me clear access to both cable ends...

You must make darned certain that when you install these onto the posts, after you've inserted them in the cable ends, that you push them down onto the posts until you hear them snap into place, otherwise they can pop off, and that would be bad...doh...

I'll be installing these in the inside later on and will compare that also to MoparMan's instructions. If there is any difference I'll edit this to add that in too.

...if I only had a brain...
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Joined: 05 Oct 2007
Posts: 2362
Location: Lake Norman, NC

PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also one item to note, the factory service manual states several times NOT to lubricate the bushings before inserting them. I found all I needed was a little spit...literally, sucked on them for a minute (yes, gross) and that worked fine. lol
...if I only had a brain...
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