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spots on windows and pillars
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lucky13
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 9:52 pm    Post subject: spots on windows and pillars Reply with quote

I have alway wondered what causes the spots that are on the black part of the windshield and on the pillars on the PT.
I have been trying to find something that will clear these spots.
Any idea's???
Thanks!
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merdinus
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here's something for the glass...... http://www.ptcrew.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4567


I used car wax for my pillars...... and they have stayed pretty nice.

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OurPTGT
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for the windows, a clay bar is yo friend, my friend Cool
Cleaner wax for the pillars works for me.
Just hit up MIO. He da detail man winking

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Mike-in-Orange
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 1:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Water spots and insufficiently rinsed soap spots can be very tough to remove from the black pillars on our cars. The best thing to do is to clean them properly to begin with. If you've got the streaking and staining you might want to try washing them with a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and distilled water. A clay bar could help, too, or you might try a good cleaner polish like Meguiar's ScratchX or ColorX, but keep in mind you'll need to put some passion behind your cleaning here - just a simple wipe on/wipe off probably won't do the trick.

I've seen some pillars that look really, really horrible. I have no clue what it takes to make them look that bad, but some people are pretty adept at it. I just make sure mine are completely dry after washing them, then I use the same wax on them that I use on the rest of the car. When I use a paint cleaner or polish on the entire car, I use it on the pillars too.

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OurPTGT
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My pillars were spotless UNTIL I went through a touchfree carwash Mad I guess the soap they use was really strong 'cause they streaked the heck up really bad Mad Haven't been able to get rid of it yet. I'll give the ColorX a try next.
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03electricbluegt
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup...touchless carwashes are horrible for your cars finish. The cleaners are full of acids. That's the only way to get crud off of a car without any mechanical help. The car wash is almost worse than leaving your car dirty until you can properly wash it.

Brian
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smottman
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The irony with washing a car is that we are usually hestitant to do it on a cloudy day fearing rain-so we end up doing it in the hot sun 95% of the time.

If done washing I usually give one final rinse and then start on the sun side of the car to dry. MIO was right that you can eliminate most of your problems if you are methodical and get everything dried while it is still wet.
If you have a dark color like black and you start on the cooler side of the car you will have water spots by the time you get to the other side on a hot day.

As far as automatic touchless car washes-the chemicals are very harsh and generally its strictly dry by RPM. You will have water spots.

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Tremor
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chrome polish on my pillars... works for me... same for windows
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Browncoat
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a clay bar on my windows and pillars, and it removed all the water spots. It takes some elbow grease at times, but the outcome is great.

Automatic car washes are evil. The ones with rotating bristle brushes should be avoided at all costs. They will ruin your finish, bend your antenna, or any number of other things. Touchless washes aren't much better...you don't get the paint scratches, but they use harsh chemicals.

I venture into the power wash now and then, the ones where you get out and use the wand. Don't use the bristle brush because who knows what kind of rocks and debris are hiding in there. But just using the wand is great at removing bugs and getting the brake dust blasted off.

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lucky13
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OurPTGT wrote:
for the windows, a clay bar is yo friend, my friend Cool
Cleaner wax for the pillars works for me.
Just hit up MIO. He da detail man winking


What is a clay bar???
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LiquidPT
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lucky13 wrote:
OurPTGT wrote:
for the windows, a clay bar is yo friend, my friend Cool
Cleaner wax for the pillars works for me.
Just hit up MIO. He da detail man winking


What is a clay bar???


If you're serious, you REALLY need to read this particlar forum more... Or alse MiO will smite you.

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Mike-in-Orange
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lucky13 wrote:
OurPTGT wrote:
for the windows, a clay bar is yo friend, my friend Cool
Cleaner wax for the pillars works for me.
Just hit up MIO. He da detail man winking


What is a clay bar???

As much as I'd like to confirm Matt's suspicions and actually smite you, it's probably better that I try and educate you first. If you fail to heed this lesson, then I will indeed be forced to smite you.

A clay bar is essentially just that, a bar of clay. But it's a special type of clay used for automotive purposes (don't try this with Play-Doh or Silly Putty) designed to remove bonded surface contaminants. If you wash your car and dry it, the run your hand over it, does it feel sort of rough or have little bumps on it, or is it literally as smooth as the mirror in your bathroom? I'll wait while you go check both......




.....yeah, that's what I though, your paint feels like crap, doesn't it? Wash the car, machine polish it, and wax it. Now feel it. The roughness is still there. That is what a clay bar is designed to remove, and it's a major step in properly prepping your car for wax. Wax is designed to adhere/bond/stick/whatever-term-you-like to paint. If you've got a bunch of crap on your paint, and you try to wax over that crap you will, for a short period of time, have shiny crap. The wax won't last as long as it would on a properly prepped surface.

The process of claying a car is very easy and can be done in 30-45 minutes, depending on how bad the finish is. You just take a piece of clay and knead it into a little flat disk that fits in the palm of your hand, spray some quick detailer on a section of the car and start rubbing away. You'll feel the clay drag and then start to glide as the bonded crud comes off, and the clay will start to look pretty nasty. Once you finish an area wipe it dry with a microfiber towel and move on to the next section, repeating until you finish the whole car. If you drop the clay, throw it away immediately and do not allow it to touch the paint again.

After you clay you can move on to either machine polishing, or use a good cleaner wax by hand, or if you're happy with the appearance (not a lot of swirls, scratches, etc) go straight to wax. But you must wax after claying as the clay will remove any wax that may have been on the car beforehand.

And that, my friend, is what the clay bar is all about.

Smiting on hold. For now.

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lucky13
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike-in-Orange wrote:
lucky13 wrote:
OurPTGT wrote:
for the windows, a clay bar is yo friend, my friend Cool
Cleaner wax for the pillars works for me.
Just hit up MIO. He da detail man winking


What is a clay bar???

As much as I'd like to confirm Matt's suspicions and actually smite you, it's probably better that I try and educate you first. If you fail to heed this lesson, then I will indeed be forced to smite you.

A clay bar is essentially just that, a bar of clay. But it's a special type of clay used for automotive purposes (don't try this with Play-Doh or Silly Putty) designed to remove bonded surface contaminants. If you wash your car and dry it, the run your hand over it, does it feel sort of rough or have little bumps on it, or is it literally as smooth as the mirror in your bathroom? I'll wait while you go check both......




.....yeah, that's what I though, your paint feels like crap, doesn't it? Wash the car, machine polish it, and wax it. Now feel it. The roughness is still there. That is what a clay bar is designed to remove, and it's a major step in properly prepping your car for wax. Wax is designed to adhere/bond/stick/whatever-term-you-like to paint. If you've got a bunch of crap on your paint, and you try to wax over that crap you will, for a short period of time, have shiny crap. The wax won't last as long as it would on a properly prepped surface.

The process of claying a car is very easy and can be done in 30-45 minutes, depending on how bad the finish is. You just take a piece of clay and knead it into a little flat disk that fits in the palm of your hand, spray some quick detailer on a section of the car and start rubbing away. You'll feel the clay drag and then start to glide as the bonded crud comes off, and the clay will start to look pretty nasty. Once you finish an area wipe it dry with a microfiber towel and move on to the next section, repeating until you finish the whole car. If you drop the clay, throw it away immediately and do not allow it to touch the paint again.

After you clay you can move on to either machine polishing, or use a good cleaner wax by hand, or if you're happy with the appearance (not a lot of swirls, scratches, etc) go straight to wax. But you must wax after claying as the clay will remove any wax that may have been on the car beforehand.

And that, my friend, is what the clay bar is all about.

Smiting on hold. For now.


Hello Mike
Thanks for the education as I can honestly say I have never heard anyone in the car circles that I have friends in say anything about a clay bar.
I can honestly say that I can take my hand and go over my paint and it is smooth as silk, as I wash my car 2 times a week, 3 if going to a show that weekend.
Tremor has seen my car in person and except for the road chips, it is pretty spotless, except for those spots on the black part of the windshield.
People can not believe that the car is 3 yrs old.
Thanks for the help!!
Smile
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Big Jon
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try puting your hand in a plastic sandwich bag & run you fingers over the paint. Don't know why but it magnifies the contaniments, you will feel it drag over rail dust or other junk. My 01 Dakota that sits outside 1 block from the RR tracks had all kinds of tiny rust spots on the surface of the paint. I spent about 1 1/2 hours claying that one.
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LiquidPT
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lucky13 wrote:
Hello Mike
Thanks for the education as I can honestly say I have never heard anyone in the car circles that I have friends in say anything about a clay bar.
I can honestly say that I can take my hand and go over my paint and it is smooth as silk, as I wash my car 2 times a week, 3 if going to a show that weekend.
Tremor has seen my car in person and except for the road chips, it is pretty spotless, except for those spots on the black part of the windshield.
People can not believe that the car is 3 yrs old.
Thanks for the help!!
Smile


Sorry, but don't think so... I'm guessing that if you clay that white car of yours, it'll change colors... Clay is for the stuff that bonds to the surface.. rail dust, pollen, sap mist... it doesn't just come off with a wash.

Try it once after a wash and before a polish. Maybe you end up losing an hour, but I think you'll be really surprised.

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My PT Cruiser is gone, but we've still got 1 out of 4 left!
Now driving a Mysterious (black) 2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe (#100/1152) and a 1991 Jeep Cherokee

snittykitty: If you can't handle being corrected, don't be wrong.
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