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Vacuum Line Diagrams - Comprehensive

 
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apexanimal
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Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 12987
Location: Grand Rapids, MI

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:35 pm    Post subject: Vacuum Line Diagrams - Comprehensive Reply with quote

Posted below is a full diagram of the vacuum/boost sources and lines... and a "big up" to James, aka letxen3, and Brian, aka 03electricbluegt, for additional research and input.


Brief definitions of stuff that isn't explained:

- Vacuum Ejector: uses air flow (boost), to create a vacuum in the adjacent line suck air/vapor out of that tube
- VSC: vehicle speed control (cruise)
- (Proportional) Purge Solenoid: regulates the release of gas vapor back into the air intake system
- NVLD: natural vacuum leak detector
- Check Valve: only allows air flow in the direction the arrow is pointing

Things to Note:

- Any YELLOW blocks are spots that need to be capped with a vacuum cap and a zip tie.
- There is no "one" way to do this, it's pretty much mix and match to your setup and car
- NOT EVERY CAR IS THE SAME - these setups work better on some than others... this will not fix all of your problems and it isn't meant to. This is meant to give you control rather than the pcm

Materials Needed:
- Silicone Vacuum Hose - you can order many colors, sizes, and lenths on http://www.boostcontroller.com, and they have them at your local Advance or Autozone as well
- Zip Ties - My car would not run without these. Get a pack of 100 and you'll always have extras. The 6-8" ones work fine.
- 3/8" Fuel Line - If you're working with the PCV line to the manfold, you can either hack up the stock one, or get some new fuel line. It's quite cheap and does what you need it to.
- Vacuum Caps - Get the variety pack from your local Advance or Autozone. These will be used to cap T fittings when one or more is not used.




This diagram is the stock configuration with Stage 0 and no extras (wga, bov, etc.).


_________________
Scott
'01 Miata: Driving a Slow Car Fast
'08 Honda Fit: Slow, but it tries hard
DO RESEARCH!!!

https://www.facebook.com/RobertsonRacingMiata/


Last edited by apexanimal on Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:33 pm; edited 7 times in total
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apexanimal
PTfuckencyco


Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 12987
Location: Grand Rapids, MI

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The subsequent diagrams, from this post on, outline one of the ways you can route your lines to accomodate your mods. The benefits of this are a bit less PTB, taking boost control away from the PCM (only with a wga), and less crap in the engine bay.

NOTE: there is NO reason to cap the solenoids with Stage 1!!!




This is the diagram for Stage 1 (with or without a Stage 2 or FM wga - the Stage 2 and FM wga should be hooked up like the stock wga).

1. Remove TIP lines and cap nipple on UCP (Note: some have had irratic idling with this mod - if this occurs, simply reattach the line)


_________________
Scott
'01 Miata: Driving a Slow Car Fast
'08 Honda Fit: Slow, but it tries hard
DO RESEARCH!!!

https://www.facebook.com/RobertsonRacingMiata/


Last edited by apexanimal on Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:34 pm; edited 4 times in total
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apexanimal
PTfuckencyco


Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 12987
Location: Grand Rapids, MI

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is for Stage 1 with the AGP WGA.


1. Remove TIP lines and cap nipple on UCP.

2. Run a vacuum line directly from the compressor housing to the AGP.


_________________
Scott
'01 Miata: Driving a Slow Car Fast
'08 Honda Fit: Slow, but it tries hard
DO RESEARCH!!!

https://www.facebook.com/RobertsonRacingMiata/


Last edited by apexanimal on Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
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apexanimal
PTfuckencyco


Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 12987
Location: Grand Rapids, MI

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is for Stage 1 with the AGP WGA and a Boost Controller.

1.Remove TIP lines and cap nipple on UCP.

2.Run a vacuum line directly from the compressor housing to the boost controller

3. Then run a nother vacuum line from the boost controller to the then the AGP


_________________
Scott
'01 Miata: Driving a Slow Car Fast
'08 Honda Fit: Slow, but it tries hard
DO RESEARCH!!!

https://www.facebook.com/RobertsonRacingMiata/


Last edited by apexanimal on Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:37 pm; edited 1 time in total
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apexanimal
PTfuckencyco


Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 12987
Location: Grand Rapids, MI

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stage 1 with the stock (or Stage 2) WGA, and an aftermarket Blow-off Valve mounted on the UCP.

1. Remove TIP lines and cap nipple on UCP.
2. Remove the surge valve line that goes to the solenoid (and of course attach a block-off plate)
3. Remove the compessor to solenoid line and cap the T near the compressor.
4. Reroute the Throttle Body T junction from the solenoid directly to the new Blow-off valve.


_________________
Scott
'01 Miata: Driving a Slow Car Fast
'08 Honda Fit: Slow, but it tries hard
DO RESEARCH!!!

https://www.facebook.com/RobertsonRacingMiata/


Last edited by apexanimal on Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
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apexanimal
PTfuckencyco


Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 12987
Location: Grand Rapids, MI

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stage 1 with a AGP WGA, Boost Controller, aftermarket Blow-off Valve, and Block-off Plate.

1. Remove TIP lines and cap nipple on UCP.
2. Run a vacuum line directly from the compressor housing to the Boost controller, then on to the AGP.
3. Remove the surge valve line that goes to the solenoid.
4. Remove the compessor to solenoid line and cap the T near the compressor.
5. Reroute the Throttle Body T junction from the solenoid directly to the new Blow-off valve.


_________________
Scott
'01 Miata: Driving a Slow Car Fast
'08 Honda Fit: Slow, but it tries hard
DO RESEARCH!!!

https://www.facebook.com/RobertsonRacingMiata/


Last edited by apexanimal on Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
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apexanimal
PTfuckencyco


Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 12987
Location: Grand Rapids, MI

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stage 1 with a AGP WGA, Boost Controller, Block-off Plate, aftermarket Blow-off Valve, Check Valve, and Catch Can.

1. Remove TIP lines and cap nipple on UCP.
2. Run a vacuum line directly from the compressor housing to the boost controller
3. Run another vacuum line from the boost controller on to the AGP.
4. Remove the surge valve line that goes to the solenoid.
5. Remove the compessor to solenoid line and cap the T near the compressor.
6. Reroute the Throttle Body T junction from the solenoid directly to the new Blow-off valve.
7. Run a 3/8" fuel line from the PCV valve on the valve cover to the Catch Can, then to the Check Valve, then to the Intake Manifold.


_________________
Scott
'01 Miata: Driving a Slow Car Fast
'08 Honda Fit: Slow, but it tries hard
DO RESEARCH!!!

https://www.facebook.com/RobertsonRacingMiata/


Last edited by apexanimal on Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
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apexanimal
PTfuckencyco


Joined: 09 Dec 2004
Posts: 12987
Location: Grand Rapids, MI

PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

all images have been rehosted
_________________
Scott
'01 Miata: Driving a Slow Car Fast
'08 Honda Fit: Slow, but it tries hard
DO RESEARCH!!!

https://www.facebook.com/RobertsonRacingMiata/
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