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Fuel pump and return install

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Joined: 01 Mar 2004
Posts: 2526
Location: Boston, MA

PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2007 8:38 pm    Post subject: Fuel pump and return install Reply with quote

THier wrote:

First things first, you must have entertainment,, so the Sirius comes in handy,,

Next you will need a fuel return system, I got mine from FWD Performance, it is a SRT4 kit,,, with the defeated regulator removed, it is different than the PT so no need to blow $40 on it. In the kit you get an Accufab fuel regulator, a filled fuel pressure gauge, lines and fittings. I got it for $260 shipped.

Raise and put car on GOOD QUALITY stands, I usually put the front on the ramps, and jack rear up and put on stands.
If you are smart, you already burned most of your gas out of the tank, my low gas light came on 30miles ago, and I drove it hard for those last miles to burn up as much as possible. Disconnect the battery for safety reasons.

You must relieve pressure, so look for the Schrader valve

and push in to relieve pressure,

You will remove the core for the return, so you will need something like this,

And this is the core, the same thing holding air in your tires.

Now, the fuel can flow freely to the regulator. Attach the short line to the fitting,

and in the case of the Accufab, the outer port of the regulator. The return to the tank connects to the center port.

I welded a piece of square tubing to the UCP the attach the regulator. You must also provide vacuum for the regulator.

The line fits in the clamps running back to the tank for a super clean installation.

The returned fuel dumps into the filler tube so it doesnít aerate the fuel. This piece was obtained from AGP.

Time to drop the tank so you can get to the pump assembly, hopefully the tank is empty, or close to it, I only had about two gallons in mine, and if you use a jack, use a piece of plywood so you donít damage the pump assembly by pressing on the bottom of the tank too hard. This is the top of the tank.

You release the line here and from the metal fuel line by pressing the blue lock, green on the main line, in and pulling the line off.

Twist the green ring off and remove the pump module.

Remove the sump to access the pump and regulator.

The regulator is under the metal retainer, gently pry the four clips and it will drop out,

Remove the plug for the pump and sender, remover the blue lock and pull the stock wires from the connector, noting where the red and black wires go.

Plug the wires from the new pump in and replace the lock. The pump comes with some extra junk on it that the SRT4 uses and we donít, so it gets trashed.

Time to disable the stock regulator, there are a couple of ways to do this, I decided to make a run to Home Depot and purchase a MAPP and OXY gas setup so I could braze it.
All you want to do is prevent the gas from going through the regulator, some how plug the ten or so holes in it.


Reassemble the regulator and pump into the module using the stock strainer, and reinstall into the tank. Carefully raise tank back into the car being careful not to press too hard on the bottom of the tank.

NOTE: You folks with a three inch exhaust system,,, it is a tight fit, donít force it, finesse it.

Hook the battery back up and turn ignition on and check for leaks.
Remove the vacuum from the regulator, and start the car and check for leaks again. Take a deep breath when the car runs and check for leaks again. I set mine at 40psi at idle with no vacuum, it drops about ten psi when I hook up the vac line. Recheck for leaks one more time. Go out and check the tuning of the car.

Thanks to Tommy Thrift for the phone help on this project, it is a little different than the mechanical injection I used to run.


Are those the The TOS in your pocket or are you just glad to see me?
"Snitty cracks a mean whip!!" ~bluegoose 10/12/07
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